Hermit crabs aren’t generally at the top of most people’s cute-and-cuddly-pets list, but that doesn’t mean that they don’t make fantastic companions. Inexpensive, easy to care for, fun to watch, and safe for children to handle, hermit crabs are an excellent beginner pet or great for adults who just don’t have a lot of spare time. However, buying any animal takes consideration. Hermit crabs, while relatively easy to maintain, can live for more than fifty years! Before making yourself responsible for the health and well-being of any pet, be thorough in your research.

So here they are, a handy compiled list of the most common hermit crab myths–things that the sales people in pet stores will tell you but aren’t necessarily true.

10. Crab Foods Should be Chopped Up Into Tiny Pieces

I see it all over. Recommendations and descriptions that talk about dicing crab foods up into tiny crab-bite size pieces. The only hermit crab that needs their food made very small is a crab that is missing both of it’s pinchers or if the food is very very hard to break into pieces. Hermit crabs come fully equipped to disassemble all manners of foods. It’s the biological duty! In addition to that they have very few activities to do in the tank so don’t deprive them of the opportunity to sit and pick a big hunk of apple or walnut apart. It makes eating an action oriented activity rather than just a set of motions. Food in large chunks also allows them to detect exactly what they are eating without being confused by several ground foods mixed together.
9. Crabs Prefer Painted Shells

I’ve seen this stated in several different places, however not one of them could point me to an article or study that proved that this was true. It’s certainly a convenient statement to justify selling painted shells to unsuspecting parents. Not only do crabs not prefer painted shells, the methods used to get crabs into them are cruel at best. In what amounts to nothing more than a cheap marketing ploy to get children to try to talk their parents into an impulse-pet-buy, painted shells are one of the last approved methods of animal cruelty allowed in pet stores. Click here to read a longer article about painted shells.

8. Commercial Food: Adequate and Complete

This is another common myth perpetuated by the petstore industry and some others. Commercial food is problematic for a number of reasons. First it often contains harmful additives and preservatives like copper sulfate and ethoxoquin. Additionally, even healthy crab diets are not complete (even if they state that they are). Hermit crabs require variety, they are biologically imprinted to move to different foods every 12 hours or so. Offering them the same manufactured foods over and over will cause them to lose interest and deprive them of the true variety that they need.

7. Gravel is the Best Substrate.

In truth, gravel should be nowhere on your acceptable substrate list. There are people who use limited amounts of gravel under the water dish but using gravel as a general substrate is a bad idea. It’s impossible to dig and bury safely in, it’s often painted, and it’s easy for bits of gravel to make it into the shell of your crab, injuring their soft abdomen.

6. If Your Hermit Crab is Sick, Put Them in the Dark

Hermit crabs are very dependent upon the natural day/night light cycle to regulate their metabolism. If you have a sick crab, give them a hiding spot, like a coconut hut but do not remove them from all light or cover their tank with a towel. The light/dark cycle will help their bodies work as they were meant to and will increase their chances of getting better. This is especialy true for treating Post Purchase Stress.
5. Hermit Crabs are Exclusively Nocturnal

It’s true that hermit crabs in the wild are most active at night with the heat of the sun and visibility to predators making the day time much less hospitable. Hermit Crabs in captivity however are much more active during the day than their wild counterparts. The longer they live in captivity the more comfortable they will be coming out during the day. Be careful not to let the nocturnal argument be an excuse for why your crabs are never out and active. A healthy crab will have periods of activity even if you miss them. A crab that sits in one spot and never moves has a problem that needs to be addressed. This problem is almost always improper humidity and temperature as well as a limited access to fresh and salt water.

4. Crabs Can’t Have Pools of Water or They Will Drown

This myth never made sense to me but I hear it over and over again. New crabbers are given the solemn, serious advice that they must not, under any circumstances, allow their crab near standing water. In fact, many go so far as to advice you to only offer your crab a damp sponge! This is terrible advice on a number of levels. First, crabs are beach dwellers, they come from the land of big water. They’re more then equipped to handle a 1 inch water bowl. Second, crabs need to get water into their shells. This requires you to provide a pool of water at least deep enough to reach your largest crab’s shell opening. Not only will theny not drown, they love water. Throw that sponge away, you don’t need it. Get them a pool and some natural moss instead!

3. You Should Mist Your Crabs Regularly

There’s no reason for you to squirt your crab with water unless it is suffering a serious health problem and you are concerned for it’s shell water level. If you are trying to raise your humidity, mist the inside walls of your tank. Crabs generally don’t like to be misted. There are some exceptions, I had a crab, Ol’Grandad, who use to run out whenever he realized I was on mist patrol. I would mist the area next to him and he would walk into the spray and stretch out, getting the water all over his armor plate. He’s the only one though. Maintaining proper humidity and providing pools does the job that you are trying to do by misting. Put. the spraybottle. down.

2. Crabs Don’t Live Very Long

This is a lie and it’s one that often ticks me off. Instead of providing proper care instructions, many pet stores hand you your crab and your stuff and when you come back a few months later to ask why your crab died, the answer is . . they don’t live very long, a few months to a year at most. It’s an easy lie for us to believe. Hermit crabs are small. Other small critters have relatively short lifespans, it’s not that far out side the realm of believability. However, hermit crabs have an incredible life span. Easily 30-50 years in the wild. That large crab you brought home last week is probably older than you are! This has been confirmed in the wild and domestically as Carol of Crabworks two crabs, John and Kate, are over 30 years old!

1. Crabs Don’t Need Salt Water

This one is the most common and often the most deadly. Hermit crabs (every species) needs salt water to regulate the salinity of their shell water (this keeps their gills and abdomen moist) as well as to aid in their molting and their metabolism. This must be ocean style salt water, not table salt, commercial sea salt (for cooking with) but salt that is designed to be used to set up a salt water aquarium (it doens’t have to be filtered sea water like in the picture, any sea mix will do). If you don’t have salt water in your tank, go buy some salt and set up a pool, observe their reaction. Most crabs will drink the water and soak in it for several days after the initial offering. It’s an absolute must for all hermit crabs.

By Tess Thompson

Kennel cough in dogs  is a fairly common condition. It occurs when a dog comes in contact with or is near an infected dog. The most likely time when this can occur is when the dog has been kenneled for a period of time.

However, being kenneled is not the only manner in which dogs can contract kennel cough. Dogs  may get infected even when they have not been recently boarded. This is because an infected dog can potentially pass on the infection to another by sneezing and coughing.

The most common viral agent that causes kennel cough is parainfluenza. The incubation period of the virus is three to four days. It is only after the incubation period that the dog shows any signs or symptoms of the infection. The duration of kennel cough in dogs  is approximately six to ten days unless there is another bacterial agent that results in extending the normal period of the condition.

Although bacterial cultures and isolation of the virus is possible to identify the agent causing kennel cough, blood tests are usually not performed since the characteristic nature of the symptoms are fairly easy to diagnose. A brief reference to symptoms, history, and recent exposure to other dogs is enough to obtain a conclusive diagnosis.

The most common symptom of kennel cough is a dry hacking cough that produces a ‘honking sound’. The cough can be identified if you know that it sounds as if there is something stuck in the throat and the dog is trying to dislodge it by coughing. Even among those who are aware of the specific nature of the coughing sound, the first reaction of the dog owner tends to be to check whether there is actually something stuck in the throat or not.

The coughing or gagging can be quite severe. It may continue for some minutes or be repeated at short intervals. It is often accompanied by a watery discharge. If the sound of the cough is not enough to confirm your hypothesis, a simple way of checking whether the coughing is related to kennel cough or not is to press the throat gently, just in the collar area. If it is kennel cough it will induce coughing.

There is no express need to panic if your dog has kennel cough since the symptoms vanish on their own in mild cases. However, if the cough is severe and your dog expels mucus while coughing, a visit to the veterinarian is necessary. The symptoms of kennel cough can progress and may cause fever, lethargy, lack of appetite or pneumonia. In extreme cases, kennel cough can also lead to death.

Article courtesy of PetAlive for Herbal Remedies for Pets!

References:

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=452

http://www.auntjeni.com/kennel.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kennel_cough

http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_kennel_cough.html

http://dogtime.com/articles/155?breaks=2502_5003_5779&page=3&slug=true&title=kennel-cough-in-dogs-vin

http://www.thepetcenter.com/gen/kenc.html

http://www.dog-health-guide.org/caninekennelcoughtreatment.html

By Tess Thompson

Dog Aggression  is normally the result of improper training that is incomplete or inconsistent. The best time to train a dog is before he turns five months old. As his age increases, the difficulty in training him also increases as habits and reflexes get conditioned. Dogs tend to aggressively assert their dominance, protect territory and resort to aggression when in an inextricable situation. Sometimes, a dog’s inherent predatory instincts can also lead him to aggression. Such aggression can manifest itself in the shape of attacking young children, dog biting or excessive barking. A puppy that has been socialized early in life, trained to accept commands and accept the owner as his leader is less likely to indulge in aggressive dog behavior unless he is compromised or instigated.

Correcting aggressive behavior in breeds that are genetically predisposed is practically impossible. If you are keen on owning such a dog, the most you can do is to manage the aggression and ensure that you take all steps towards prevention of a dog bite. Dog aggression is mostly correctable by re-training unless the aggression is caused by an underlying medical condition. In such cases no amount of training will correct the aggression and such a situation may ultimately lead to dog biting  unless proper medication is administered timely. The veterinarian is the best person to consult in such cases. Treatment of the underlying medical cause will automatically treat dog aggression. Some of the medical causes that can lead to aggressive dog behaviors include the following.

·        Hypothyroidism – An under active thyroid gland. It is an endocrinal disease that disturbs the balance of thyroid hormone.

·        Neurological Disturbances – The neurotransmitter, serotonin, plays an important role in controlling aggression and its absence is a common cause behind neurological aggression.

·        Bacterial or Viral Encephalitis – Acute encephalitis is commonly seen in young dogs while its chronic state is seen in adult dogs. Distemper and rabies are viral forms of encephalitis.

·        Low Blood Sugar – It causes staggering or collapse, aggression, and change in moods.

·        Hydrocephalus – An abnormal condition in which cerebrospinal fluid collects in the ventricles of the brain. It is commonly seen in dog breeds that have a short broad head.

·        Brain Tumors – Benign or malignant growth in the brain can cause mood changes, irritation, confusion, and anxiety.

·        Head Injury – When the brain is affected by a physical trauma or injury, it can lead to neurological symptoms including aggression.

·        Epilepsy -There are many causes of epilepsy. It may be hereditary or due to other medical conditions including those listed above.

The treatment for most of the medical causes that lead to dog aggression is similar to that of humans. SSRI drugs and other anti-depressants are used to treat most of the brain disorders. Hormonal supplements are used to restore hormonal imbalance to treat hypothyroidism. However, it cannot be denied that, just as in humans, that natural therapies can play an important role in treating medical causes of dog aggression also.

Natural therapies of curing aggression actually target the underlying cause behind the medical disorder. Many times treating disease is simply a matter of changing behavioral patterns and diet. Natural therapies have a holistic approach to disease. When used in conjunction with conventional medicine, behavioral and diet modifications can produce excellent results. Herbs, homeopathy, acupuncture, and other alternative remedies have successfully been used to treat humans; there is nothing that says that the same benefits cannot be derived by animals also.

Article courtesy of PetAlive for Herbal Remedies for Pets!

References:

http://www.k9aggression.com/Aggression-Treatment/medical_issues.html

http://www.patchandscratchpetclub.co.uk/content/pawsforthought5.htm

By Tess Thompson

A large number of companion dogs live inside the house and are trained to urinate out in the open. When such dogs start urinating or dribbling in the house, it is time for owners to visit the veterinarian for a thorough check up of the urinary tract for any signs of bacterial infection.

Canine and feline urinary incontinence is the most significant symptom of a urinary tract malfunctioning. Incontinence, however, must be differentiated from frequent urination. It is this differentiation that often helps to differentiate a bacterial infection from serious conditions like bladder stones or cancer. Frequent urination is not involuntary and the dog is aware of it. There is just a strong uncontrollable urge to urinate caused by canine or feline urinary infection. Incontinence is involuntary urination and is caused by a blockage in the passage that causes accumulated urine to put back pressure resulting in leakage.

Blockage in the urinary passage may be caused by migratory bladder stones that obstruct free flow of urine or may be due to a cancerous growth. Cancer is a malignant growth caused by abnormal and uncontrolled cell division that forms a mass (tumor) of unwanted cells that perform no function. A tumor in the bladder may increase in size and block the passage. Bladder cancer in dogs is mostly malignant, invasive and difficult to operate.

Medication involves toxic drugs that have serious side effects. It is indeed an unlucky dog who is diagnosed with malignant growth in the bladder since the conventional treatment options are so limited and relatively ineffective. Dog owners can only hope to prolong survival time with medication.

Alternative medicine can help in improving the quality of life by providing significant relief from symptoms. Some herbs that can provide symptomatic treatment and help in slowing the growth of cancer and boosting the immune system include:

– Astragalus – Chemotherapy and radiation used for treatment of bladder cancer often compromise the patient’s immune system. Astralalus is a recommended herb that helps to restore immune functioning and may prevent spread of the tumor.

– Mistletoe – This herb has long been used for its anti-cancer properties and proves to be a good supportive treatment.

– Withania somnifera (Ashwagandha) – This Ayurvedic herb is highly recommended for improving general health. Regular use of Ashwagandha also increases hemoglobin levels. Its anti cancer, anti-inflammatory and calming properties can help in providing the dog with a better quality of life.

– Milk Thistle – Milk thistle is an ancient herb that has been subjected to numerous clinical trials. It can be used to counter the toxic side effects of conventional drugs. Its ingredients are strong antioxidants that can block the entry of toxins in the liver.

In addition to the above herbs, the following herbs need to be mentioned as they can also play an important role in preventing and treating urinary tract infection in dogs along with managing bladder cancer.

– Echinacea purpurea

– Bladderack

– Buchu

– Dandelion

– Golden Seal

Even though bladder cancer is not completely curable, effective management of the disease can go a long way in enabling the unlucky animal to lead a comfortable life.

Article courtesy of PetAlive for Herbal Remedies for Pets!

References:

http://www.herbal-treatments.com/dog_cancer_bladder.html http://www.herbal-treatments.com/king.html

http://www.herbal-dogkeeping.com/dog_cancer_bladder.html http://www.dog-health-guide.org/bladdercancerfordog.html

By Tess Thompson

Bladder stones are fairly common in domestic pets and are linked with urinary tract infection in dogs  and urinary tract infection in cats. Besides urinary infection in dogs, changes in the pH balance, over saturation of urine with crystals and water re-absorption by the kidney tubules are the other major causes behind the formation of bladder stones. Diet, decreased water intake and frequency of urination and genetics are some of the factors that contribute to the formation of bladder stones.

Concentration and pH balance play an important role in the type of stone that is formed. Calcium oxalate and urate stones are formed when the urine is acidic to neutral. Struvite stones are generally formed in neutral to alkaline pH environments. Cystine stones, calcium phosphate stones and silicate stones, on the other hand, although dependent upon pH of the urine are more breed specific and are caused due to a defect in renal tubules.

The extent of urea in the body is another factor that plays a significant role in the formation of calcium crystals that ultimately result in bladder stones.

A confirmation of the type of bladder stones can only be obtained by testing the bladder stones in a laboratory. These can be obtained for examination by two methods. Trying to flush out a stone is one option. This method is likely to work only if the stones are small. The only other method that can yield a stone sample for testing is the intrusive surgical method.

Treatment of bladder stones can range from dissolving and flushing to intrusive surgical treatments. Dissolving calcium oxalate stones is not possible. Flushing is possible only if the stones are small in size. But if the stones get dislodged from the bladder and travel in the urethra to block the passage, a surgical treatment becomes necessary.

Even after surgical treatment, a large proportion of the dogs develop calcium stones again. Therefore, preventive measures become extremely important in controlling this recurrent condition.

A controlled diet is extremely important. Foods that have low levels of calcium are recommended. Since calcium stones generally form under acidic conditions, foods that create an acidic environment inside the body should be avoided. The final solution is to give your dog a balanced diet that maintains a pH scale of 6.4 to 6.6. An imbalance in pH implies that the digestive system is working at low resistance levels.

Make all efforts to increase your dog’s intake of water. High levels of water can help keep concentration at low levels, thus preventing the formation of calcium crystals. Water also helps in reducing the risk of canine or feline urinary tract infection.

Regular urinalysis (say once in every two months) can help in monitoring the pH levels of urine.  Taking radiographs once a quarter can allow you to see whether new stones are beginning to form. These can be treated immediately by flushing, before matters get out of hand and the stones become large.

Once your dog has suffered from calcium bladder stones, administering potassium citrate is helpful. The potassium citrate ensures that the calcium binds with the citrate forming calcium citrate, a compound that is dissolvable in urine.

Article courtesy of PetAlive for Herbal Remedies for Pets!

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bladder_stone_%28animal%29#Symptoms   

http://www.executec.com/urolith.htm  

http://petcaretips.net/why_bladder_stones_form.html   

http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_canine_oxalate_bladder_stones.html  

http://www.tetonnm.com/pics/MESSamplePages/1-893441-10-5.pdf  

By Tess Thompson

An infected bladder can cause a strong urge to urinate and is a primary cause of canine and feline urinary incontinence.

A long standing bladder infection can damage the bladder rendering it unable to stretch when there is a need to hold urine. In generally cases of urinary incontinence the dog is unaware of dribbling or the passing of urine. However, when incontinence is cause due to a bladder infection the dog is aware of the urination but is unable to control the urge, which compels him to urinate at places where he is not meant to.

Bladder infection is more common in female dogs and affects the lower urinary tract. Though the urinary tract is otherwise sterile, the urethral opening, through which urine is passed out, is the entry point for the bacteria. These bacteria cause urinary tract infection in dogs. Bladder infection can occur at any age and UTI in puppies is also a common occurrence.

Dogs with an infected bladder tend to empty the bladder partially each time that they urinate. This occurs due to a difficulty in emptying the entire urinary bladder in one go and makes the urine extremely smelly. The urine may sometimes contain blood due to severe infections caused by calculi, cancer, or a tumor.

The diagnosis of urinary tract infections is not complicated at all. A simple laboratory examination of the urine and blood often determines its prevalence. The vet may suggest a urine culture to identify the pathogen that is causing the infection to be able to prescribe the most effective antibiotic. Since dribbling and urination in undesignated places can cause a fair amount of frustration among owners, the first attempt to cure such a condition is a complete diagnoses followed up with treatment.

Treatment modalities for bacterial bladder infection are different from what is required if the problem is due to some other condition and therefore consulting an expert is the best option.  Most of the lower urinary tract infections are simple to treat and dogs usually respond well to antibiotics.

Bladder infection that does not respond to antibiotics necessitates further investigation. And your pet may need to undergo an X-Ray of the bladder to confirm whether there is any formation of crystals, calculi or any indication of a tumor in the bladder.

Article courtesy of PetAlive for Herbal Remedies for Pets!

References:

http://www.thepetcheckup.com/works/screen/urinary_bladder_disease.html

http://www.dogchannel.com/dog-books/dog-bladder-infection.aspx?cm_sp=InternalClicks-_-RelatedArticles-_-dog-books/dog-bladder-infection

http://www.ygrr.org/doginfo/health-bladder.html http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/ClientED/incont.aspx

By Tess Thompson

Practically the same drugs and antibiotics that are used for treating UTI in humans are used for treating urinary tract infections in cats. Amoxicillin is semi synthetic oral penicillin that is used for treating bacterial infections and is one of the primary antibiotics indicated for treating feline urinary tract infection.

As is widely known, antibiotics should be used only when they cannot be avoided as they are liable to become ineffective over time and with overuse. It is necessary that proper information be gathered about the drug before it is used to treat urinary infection in cats. For veterinarian use, amoxicillin is available in the 100mg dose as amoxicillin trihydrate. It works by inhibiting the biosynthesis of large structural molecules in the cell walls of bacteria. It is indicated in the treatment of cystitis, urethritis and genitourinary tract infections along with infections of the upper and lower respiratory tracts.

The hypersensitivity reaction to the injection of penicillin is well known and amoxicillin infections can also result in similar reactions. Such hypersensitivity can even be fatal at times. Since there are no skin or patch tests that can be done before taking the medicine orally or otherwise, extreme care is required when it is being administered for the first time.

Even though patients with a history of sensitivity to multiple allergens are more vulnerable, the reaction can happen to anyone. An allergic reaction may present itself in the shape of salivation, shivering, vomiting and itchy skin eruptions. In the event of an allergic reaction, the antibiotic should be discontinued immediately and a new appropriate therapy should be adopted. Serious allergic reactions require immediate treatment with epinephrine to stimulate the autonomic nerve reaction.

On the positive side, amoxicillin remains stable in the presence of gastric acids and can be safely given with feed. The drug diffuses quickly into the body tissues and fluids even on oral digestion.

The dosage of amoxicillin depends on the weight of the cat. The recommended dosage is quarter of a tablet (25mg) for a cat weighing less than 2.25 kg and half a tablet (50 mg) for those weighing between 2.25 to 4.5 kg. A full tablet is prescribed for heavier cats. After daily administration for 5 to 7 days, the drug should be continued for another couple of days till the symptoms of the urinary tract infection subside completely.

For instances of severe urinary tract infection in dogs and cats, a higher concentration of the drug is required. In such cases, the dosage is invariably doubled. However, care needs to be taken to avoid an overdose.

Even though there are no absolute side effects that have been observed in unborn kittens, the benefits of the drug need to be weighed against the possible threat to the fetus when administering the antibiotic to a pregnant cat.

Article courtesy of PetAlive for Herbal Remedies for Pets!

References:

http://www.drugs.com/vet/amoxicillin-100-can.html

http://www.usp.org/pdf/EN/veterinary/amoxicillinAndClavulanate.pdf